Weddings By Christopher’s Custom

If you or your son/daughter is planning a wedding, there are many excellent choices for wedding venues, caterers, bridal gowns, bands, DJ’s, flowers, etc.

But…where does the groom turn for his outfit and that of his groom’s men?

Typically, a groom turns to a chain tuxedo rental outfit for rental tuxedos for himself and his party.

A viable alternative with unlimited creative twists exists and is offered by Christopher’s Custom and many other custom clothiers.  Many young men are cost conscious and seek value-driven alternatives to the rental of previously-worn tuxedos.  A purchased tuxedo or suit will provide years’ worth of future wearability vs the one-and-done nature of a tuxedo rental!

Below is a recent wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.


Ben Baker and his groom’s men are shown at Canfield Casino in Saratoga Springs wearing Super 140’s, 100% wool, black suits, custom white broadcloth shirts woven with long-staple 2-ply cotton, white silk pocket squares, and black silk ties from Christopher’s Custom.

Each suit was tailored to be slim-fitting and very hip!

These Off-the-rack suits are priced competitively with most tuxedo rentals.  Ben chose to purchase custom shirts as his groom’s men gifts.  Inside the yolk of each we had embroidered the bride’s and groom’s initials along with the date of their wedding.


Ben’s custom shirts were designed with a Slightly shorter collar to complement today’s slimmer lapel profiles,and my personal favorite- a convertible, non-fold french cuff.  One that may be worn with or without cuff links!

Here is another wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.  This groom, Jake Dubuque, chose custom suits and shirts for his wedding party.


Their suit fabric was a terrific lightweight linen-wool blend, perfect for his summer wedding.

If you are wondering, measurements for your groom’s men are easily attained by using our Christopher’s Custom Wedding Measurement Form.

For custom wedding garments, I recommend allowing 8 weeks.  For off-the-rack choices, 4weeks is recommended to allow for alterations and other unexpected emergencies.

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding and feel free to contact me for a consultation or with any other questions you may have.


Vinnie Rua-Founder, Christopher’s CustoM

Men’s Jackets…length and venting?

Awhile ago we discussed lapels. Today let’s address how long a guy’s jacket aka suit or sport coat should be and what is the trend in venting the back of the coat.


There is considerable debate over jacket length in fashion circles. My thoughts will assume our model is 6′ tall.  Add/subtract 1/2″ for every inch taller/shorter you or a friend might be.  A conservative jacket length would be 31 1/2″ measured from under the back collar at the seam to the bottom of the jacket.  More fashion-forward guys will prefer a shorter jacket.  One inch shorter is all one needs to provide a stylishly shorter jacket.  A few years ago, shortening one’s jacket 2″ or more from standard was not unusual.  Today, however, I think 1″ shorter is the length with which  most guys will be comfortable…and not go out of style!


This is a good photo to illustrate length concepts.  The jacket above is approximately 2.5″ shorter than “standard”.  Note how it ends above our model’s thumb  add 2.5″ and it would come to the bend of our model’s fingers.


My good friend Jeffrey Ameen, sports one of his Haspel searsucker jackets…but its length comes down to Jeff’s palm/fingers crease.  In other words, a standard length.

For casual weekend wear, the sweater-jacket or “swacket” is a popular choice this Fall. Usually unlined in a knit fabric, this jacket is even shorter…I recommend 2-2.5″ shorter for most guys from the standard.  (By the way…”standard” length is determined by measuring from under the back collar to the floor and using 1\2 this measurement.  My total length (I am 6′ tall) from under the collar at the seam where the felt is attached to the fabric of the jacket, is 63″…hence my standard is 31.5″.)


Ventless backs are not recommended…except for tuxedos.

My customers seem to be split 50/50 between center and side vents.  In either case, We typically reduce the standard vent length (9.5″) by .75-1.5″ depending on one’s height.

I feel the fashion trend is moving to shorter center venting.  My personal garments have had shorter center vents for the last two years.  .75-1.5″ is all one needs to reduce vents.  For a 6’er, I recommend reducing vent length 1.5″.  For taller guys, I recommend no reduction;  for guys 5’10” or shorter, I recommend vents reduced by 1.5″.

Hope this helps.  Please contact me with any followup questions you may have on your wradrobe needs.


Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Creative Formal…???

What the heck does this mean?

I have blogged about formal attire for weddings in the morning, afternoon, evening…but not “creative formal”.

In fact, this might be a new term…but I find myself faced with hosting a party where the birthday girl wants to wear a “pretty, summery, dress”. So…the dress attire code “creative formal” was chosen.

Women may wear cocktial dresses, silk pants with white or colorful halter tops, etc…women just don’t need help with what to wear…so…

Guys…here are my recommendations…

Black tie is for socializing. It is for relaxing, having a good time, drinking, dancing, and otherwise making merry with friends. It is NOT for work or business. (Props to the Style Forum for having posted this neat description.) hcttp://

Let’s start with some basic building blocks and morph forward.  “Formal” typically involves a black or midnight blue tuxedo, white shirt, black tie…or white dinner jacket.  Creative Formal does NOT mean you have to wear a tux!

Let’s get creative and qualify that the party is on a summer, Saturday night at a home in the woods.  If we just remember black/white…we can’t go wrong…from dark jeans/white shirt worn out over jeans to white jeans/black shirt…one will be dressed appropriately.  If, on the other hand, a guy wants to step it up…

One can’t go wrong with a tux jacket…but I’d dress down the tux jacket by going sans tie.  Try a pair of lighter jeans…or white jeans…or shorts…this is a fun, summer party!


This elegant tux jacket looks pretty good over those tattered jeans!  Lose the tie or go with white tee!  No socks…very cool outfit!


I don’t care for Kanye’s act but this is a cool outfit!

Now, for those without a white or black tux jacket:

Have a linen or seersucker suit or jacket?   This would be a great alternative…roll up the sleeves and pick an idea from below.


My good friend, Jeffrey Ammeen rocks out in a seersucker (Haspel of course) and a pair of indigo jeans with white shirt…simple!

if interested, try a thrift shop…might be able to find a used tux jacket for <$10.

if not, do you have a sport coat?  If yes, dress it , with old tux pants, black pants/jeans, or shorts.  White shirt/bow tie…or black tee shirt ala Giorgio Armani works too…


For a “creative Formal” event, pair your sport coat with a white shirt or tee, dark jeans…and you can’t miss!

No jacket or jacket not your style?

Black pants with white shirt or white jeans with black shirt…shirt can be long sleeve, short sleeve, polo, or nicer tee.  Jeans with a white collared shirt would be great…darker seems better for this occasion than worn or lighter blue.  Use the torn, faded jeans with something dressier like a tux jacket or favorite sport coat!

imageThis dark jean/ white shirt provides a basic look for “Creative Formal” .

Shoes…have fun!  The funkier the better…sneakers with tux jacket!  No real rules here but I’D stay from boots…sandals with tux jacket?  Why not?

So…”Creative Formal” to me is an opportunity for guys to dress up a little or a lot…but keep it funky…here are a few more ways to take a tux jacket and funk it up!


For those with mustaches!

imageRyan Gosling shows us how to take an old dinner jacket, a tee and a pair of black jeans…and have fun!


How about a favorite corton cable under that jacket?


If you are a beard and tat guy…well…you get the picture!

Have fun!


Vinnie Rua-Founder, Christopher’s Custom

What Topics are Acceptable to Post on LinkedIn?

Let’s get some dialogue going from those who use LinkedIn about what topics should get filtered out of the mainstream into “job” forums.

I am a custom clothier who regularly posts about fashion trends.  This has been my specialty for over 20 years.  Lately, however, my posts have getting booted out of regular posts and into “jobs”.

I have a somewhat unique background and accordingly am a member of diverse groups.  I am am a CPA, was a partner in the largest single office CPA firm in the country, was a CEO and Chairman of the Board of several companies, and accordingly am a member of CPA groups, CEO groups, etc.  as well as fashion-related trade groups.

If one is accepted into a group, it seems to me that as long as one isn’t blatantly selling a product, their posts should be accepted by the group.  I am told annually by LinkedIn that my profile gets the top 1% of hits in the world…each year!  Someone must be interested in what I’m posting…yet, of late, my posts are getting bumped into “job” boards.

Most who are on LinkedIN with whom I speak are on for one reason…to further their careers one way or another.  Most abide by the rules and try to post about subjects over which they command some lever of expertise.

Are there new algorithms that automatically kick out posts based on certain words?  I have reviewed other posts in groups where my posts are getting booted…and must say there are many posts that are explicitly job solicitation posts…which are not booted into the “job” board.

Can anyone add anything?

Lapels, Vents, Length…what are the rules now?

There is plenty of confusion surrounding how a guy should style his suit or sport coat jacket…along with plenty of opinions.

Today, I will share my personal thoughts and advice on lapels.  Watch for future posts on venting and jacket length.

Notch lapels are the most popular collar style.  Their width should vary depending on one’s size.  I recommend staying away from trendy alternatives such as peak lapels for most customers.  The real variable is lapel width.  We are faced with an interesting dichotomy today…retail stores in the USA typically trail fashion runway style. It not unusual, accordingly, to find lapels as small as 2″ in box stores…while European designers are featuring lapels 3 1/2″ and larger!

A better alternative is a fashionable 3-3 1/4″ lapel.  Generally, if one has a chest size of 43″ or smaller, a 3 1/8″ lapel is perfect.  A 3″ lapel would be reserved for a lighter build while a 3 1/4″ lapel works for those wearing 44″ and larger jackets.  If a guy as bigger…let’s say 50″ chest or larger, a larger lapel might be appropriate.  You should defer to your professional tailor.


Featured above is a gorgeous red linen from my Summer Track Collection.  The model is a slim 40″ Regular, and the lapel width is 3 1/8″  I think most would agree that this lapel looks fine, providing its wearer a timeless look sure to provide years of wearing enjoyment.

Please feel free to contact me via email with your sartorial questions.


Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

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