If you watch any news channel or American Idol you can’t help but notice  the resurgence of the classic white shirt. Gone are the voluminous pinpoint button downs and broadcloth’s with narrow point collars. It’s the same fabric in new updated collars and silhouettes.

The White Shirt Returns!

The new white shirt has a trimmer sleeve, 4-5 inch allowance throughout the body, a 3 1/4 inch British spread collar with classic french cuffs. This style  compliments classic tailored clothing. For the gentleman who wants to sport a narrow lapel: choose a collar with a 2 3/4″ windsor collar with the trimmer sleeve option, and allow a 3-4 inch allowance over skin throughout the body. Coordinate this look with a thinner tie and you have created that Ryan Seacrest look.

This is the broadest range of fashion collars I can remember…imagine…smaller point collars are in…and so are wider spread collars!

Men’s fashions seem to be experiencing a refreshing renaissance.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder Christopher’s Custom

If you are starting to think about what sport coat to consider for this Summer’s events, look into an updated seersucker jacket.  Last week we spoke about some ways to really make your summer sport coat sizzle…this week, we’ll talk about a very value-oriented alternative…the seersucker jacket!

These can be sold as part of a suit, or as “separates”…jacket separately from the matching pants.

Haspel Blue Seerucker Suit

Here, the jacket is paired with matching pants for a very “cool” summer suit.  Haspel invented the seersucker suit and is one of my favorites…but look around…you’ll be surprised as how inexpensive this jacket can be!

For a totally casual look, pair the jacket only with a pair of your favorite jeans:

Seersucker jacket with jeans

You should be able to find a reasonably-priced seersucker jacket at a men’s store near you.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Wow!  This is one of the first times I can remember, when there is not a clear recommendation!

For dress (suit) occasions, our most popular collar is our “medium spread”.

Medium Spread Collar

A close second and one you should consider if you’ve purchased a new suit with a lapel that measures 3″ or less, is a similar collar to that above, with a smaller point.  The point on the above collar is 3″ long.  The point on the shirt below can be between 2 1/2- 2 3/4″ in length.

GQ's Hip Spring 2011 Collar

Notice how the slimmer tie and smaller collar complement the narrower lapels of this hipster’s suit?   Also, note the very cool pocket square added for a little extra punch…a Style Leader must have!

Finally, for those with the most trendy of tastes, consider the resurrection of the club collar…Beckham can be seen wearing these in various photo shoots and they do offer a unique and refreshing change.  I recently ordered one for myself with some unique collar trims…can’t wait for that to arrive!

Bend It Like This?

One note of caution…stay away from knit or woven ties for a small collar like this…it is virtually impossible to get a small enough knot with anything but a simple silk tie like the one Beckham has on above.

Have a great Spring!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Whether you wear a suit daily or not, a summer sport coat can be invaluable for so many special occasions.  In Albany, NY, we have the SPAC Opening Gala in Saratoga Srings, Rock The Runway Fashion Show at Taste in Downtown Albany, numerous musical specials at Tanglewood in the Berkshires, and…of course…a day at the races in August in Saratoga.

Most stores carry pretty “safe” sport coat options due to the shortness of the selling season.  Sport coats are the toughest “sale” at retail…and retailers know how to invest their inventory dollars wisely with the least risk.

But…what if you want a really special sport coat?  One answer is to allocate a few extra dollars from your wardrobe budget to investing in a custom sport coat.  Below, I’ll show you just a few tricks of the trade that can make any custom sport coat a head turner.

Pretty Cool...wouldn't you say?

In the two sport coats above, we’ve trimmed out the button holes with a light blue stitching, added a light button, with the same blue for the button’s thread.  You will also see the sleeve seam is stitched in a wider 1/4″ pic using the same blue thread found in the button holes and button thread.

On the sleeves, we’ve designed with real working buttons…known as “functional button holes”.  These have been similarly trimmed with a blue thread, and we’ve added a very cool gros grain trim on the underside of the sleeve cuff.

The fit for anyone with a youthful attitude is trim.  The shoulder treatment can be a bone of contention…should it be soft, padded, capped?  I prefer for my fashion forward guys a slightly roped shoulder…I know this may go against the grain of some designers who are advocating a very old-fashioned soft, natural shoulder, but…my younger clients really like the distinction of a roped shoulder with very light shoulder padding. In the jacket below, the “roped shoulder” can be seen in the right shoulder.  You’ll notice a slightly raised seam which is the “rope” inside.

To further lighten the jacket, I recommend a 1/2 lining.

This lining treatment creates a very lightweight jacket, with another unique twist to your summer sport coat choice.

On this sport coat, we also added a button hole on the left lapel that was trimmed out in white thread.

Have fun, be a Style Leader, and Happy Easter!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder

Add a little flair with a pic stitching down the leg seam that complements the trim fabric you choose for your pocket underflap.  This is the pocket you don’t put your glove into!

The large tour V notch at the bottom of your pant leg shows a unique style not readily available in your local pro shops or sporting goods stores.

The pic stitching, under-pocket flap trim, and contrasting button hole stitching is only available in custom.

I recommend our stretch cotton Barberis fabric for the most comfortable pair of golf pants you’ve ever owned!

If you are as serious about the way you look on the golf course as the way you play, contact me to discuss my Christopher’s “Killer” Golf Pant!

Thanks.

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom