Do You Have Long/Short or Different Length Arms?

This is more common than most think, but is easily addressed by a properly measured, custom shirt.  Custom shirts are made to your specific measurements.  Each arm is individually measured, along with each wrist, your neck, chest, etc.

Note the equal 1/2" of shirt reveal at each wrist.

If you are purchasing a shirt off-the-rack, and know your sleeve lengths, always purchase a shirt whose sleeve length is at least as long as your longer arm.  If the shirt has buttons, you can have your tailor tighten the wrist of the shorter arm by moving the button on the cuff of the shorter arm, so that the shirt stops at the break in your wrist.  While there will technically be a little excess fabric in the arm of the shorter sleeve, your sleeves will appear to be the same length.

If you are purchasing a shirt with cuff links, your only alternative to a custom shirt is to have a tailor shorten one of your sleeves.  They do this by removing the cuff, cutting the sleeve to your length, and re-applying the cuff.

The alternative to the above options, is of course, to be fitted for a custom shirt.  Your sleeves will be perfect.

Please feel free to contact me at vince@christopherscustom.com with any related questions.

Are You Between A Short/Regular or Regular/Long or Long/XLong Suit Jacket?

Suits (and blazers or sport coats) come in different lengths and are referred to by chest size and length. The following guidelines are recommended for one who does not want to follow trends.

HOW ARE SUITS SOLD?

If one’s chest measurement is, for example, 40″ around; and they are 5′ 11″ tall, they might typically wear a suit that is a size 40 Regular.  Other sizes typically found in stores that inventory suits would be short, and extra long.  (There are extra short and XXL suits that are made, but finding them is next to impossible.)

Any suit will really only fit a person of one specific height perfectly.  What if the jacket you try on is made for one who is 5/10” tall and you are 5’ 8” or 5’ 11”?  If you choose a custom-made suit, the jacket will be made the perfect length for you.

Properly sized jacket

WHAT IS THE “RIGHT” LENGTH FOR A SUIT JACKET ( or BLAZER or SPORT COAT)?

The answer is actually pretty simple…but needs to be followed with common sense.  The correct length for a 2-button jacket is 1/2 the length from under the jacket’s back collar seam (lift the back of the collar, and measure from the seam where the felt meets the back of the jacket) to the floor.  If the jacket is a double breasted or 3 or 4 button jacket, the length needs to be longer to accommodate the extra buttons…usually 1/2″ to 3/4″ extra.  (The general rules such as “your thumb should brush the bottom of your jacket”, work for those few in the perfect fit category…a tailor’s tape does not err.  If the salesperson assisting you doesn’t know how to measure the length of your jacket, ask for another sales person or move on to another store.)

WHAT IF I’M BUYING OFF THE RACK AND AM “IN BETWEEN”?

If one is buying off the rack, they should gravitate towards a jacket that is within 1/2″ of their actually required length.  So…let’s say that you are 6″ and the actual length from your jacket collar’s back seam to the floor is 62 1/2″.  The perfect length for you would be 31 1/4″.  Let’s further assume the “regular” jacket in your chest size is 30 1/2 inches and the long is 32″.  I would recommend you go with the “long” length jacket.  If the length is more than 1/2″ off, err on the long side.  A jacket that is 3/4″ or more shorter than desired is usually too short.

Also…and this is a significant tip, a jacket can usually be shortened by an accomplished tailor up to 1″ without disturbing the balance of the pocket placement on the front of the jacket.  The cost should be between $25-50 for this alteration…a very efficient way to get a perfect fit vs. custom.

Thanks for following this post.  We’ll discuss related issues with ties for guys who are “in between sizes” in a separate post.

For my current customers, here is a quick link to make an appointment: LINK TO CHRISTOPHER’S APPOINTMENT LOG

BUT WHAT IF YOU ARE A REAL FAN OF FASHION?

For those who prefer to be on top of today’s fashion scene, jacket lengths are currently shorter on the runways.  Using the above rules, subtract one inch for your length and you should be right on track…but caution…this shorter jacket is already being replaced next Fall with longer lengths such as are recommended above!

Please send my your fashion questions at vince@christopherscustom.com

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom and The Style Leader For Men

WIN A FREE CUSTOM SHIRT

One Free Custom Shirt is going to the best three fashion questions I receive before February 15, 2010.  Simply comment to this blog with your fashion question.

DESIGN YOURS...WITH A GREAT FASHION QUESTION!

If you are from outside of my 50 mile personal service radius, we’ll need to speak, but with a little work, I’ll still make you a custom shirt at no charge if yours is one of the best three questions!

Send those questions!

Thanks…looking forward to some good stuff!

Vinnie Rua…The Style Leader for Men

2010 Grammy Awards- BEST/WORST OUTFITS

Well…what a great show last night! There were some great outfits…and some totally inappropriate outfits…first, let’s take a look at the official invitation sent to all who attended…

Official Invitation
Note the Dress Code found on the fourth line from the bottom: Black Ti

Next, let’s give props to a few who didn’t follow the rules of dress entirely but certainly showed a lot of individuality, creativity, and pushed the definition of “Black Tie” to the acceptable limit…

USHER

Usher pushed it a little…but his jacket and vest are clearly not regular suit pieces because of the piping…let’s think of this as a “millenium tuxedo”.  The shirt is a little casual…but coordinates with the tie…an A for effort and creativity.

JOHN LEGEND

John chose a very dressy gray sharkskin with some great accessories…vee-neck with some great details, a cool tie, etc…this is a very, very dressy outfit…not quite “black tie”…but it’s as close as it gets without being black tie…nice effort, John!

BEST DRESSED GUY:

BEST DRESSED-NICK JONAS

Nick had some great fashion advice…and won our best dressed award in a black peak lapel tux with a traditional black bow tie.

Very elegant and appropriate for a black tie affair!

WORST DRESSED GUY:

WORST DRESSED-TRAVIS BARKER

Blink-182’s drummer, Travis Barker, was just inappropriately dressed. His outfit shows absolutely no respect for those who were honored.

AND…Who was the BEST DRESSED WOMAN AT THE GRAMMYS?

Taylor Swift

Talented winner also was a sure hit in her outfit.  Very dressy gown!  Congrats, Taylor all the way around.