FASHION

How Should A Short Guy’s Suit Fit?

GQ has done a great job once again!  The secrets are somewhat counter intuitive!  See #3 and 4!

GQ says, let your hair go!  Puff it up a bit for extra height.

GQ’s #2 tip is that stripes do help make one taller.  There must be a fine stripe in the model’s suit…but I agree with the advice!

GQ’s #3 tip is make sure your jacket is not too long!  What is the correct length?  Today’s fashion trend would be to have your tailor measure the distanct from under your suit collar to the floor, divide by two, then subtract 1″ for a suit with the perfect length!

GQ #4 tip is to eliminate break from your pants…they say “pants with no break give an extra boost”…again…we agree!

So…show this to your custom tailor and ask them to help you with this super look!

Happy designing!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

ACCESSORIES FOR THE MODERN PROFESSIONAL

Many of my clients have been asking for assistance with accessorizing their wardrobes. Today’s blog will begin with some fundamentals that each guy should consider if they are concerned with presenting a fully put-together outfit and image.

SUITS
Let’s begin with suit accessories.

SHOES/BELTS

Shoes should match belts…this doesn’t mean a perfect match…but the same color or color family will work.  Here is a good example of shoes/belt that match:

WHAT ABOUT POCKET SQUARES?

A pocket square is recommended for any occasion.

A simple square fold, ironed or not, is a most professional way to display one’s pocket silk, linen, or cotton.  Inquire about other options.  The standard rule is to try to first match one’s shirt…if you can bring in the tie color as a secondary feature, you’ve hit a home run!

TIE BARS?

Today’s younger professionals are often seen with tie bars that match their cuff links and/or belt buckle.  Here are a few sample ideas:

A simple rodium tie bar in silver tone complements the red-stoned cuff link.  Similarly, a brushed rodium tie bar with a red diamond complements the cuff link chosen with red stones.

The tie bar should be exposed slightly when your top button of your suit jacket is buttoned.  It will also hold you tie neatly when you are eating!

LEATHER WRIST BRACELETS?

Another popular accessory is a wrist bracelet and you can mix and match depending on your style craziness!

Try to match your shoe/belt colors.  If you want to be a little more venturesome, add a pop of color like the second red/black bracelet above.  These may be worn next to your watch or on the opposite hand.

BOUTONNIERES!

Next, we need to look at lapel pins…YES…there is a definite movement back to boutonnieres…but now they are made from silk or porcelain!  A truly unique look would be to go for a real flower!

No one does it better than my friend and designer, Edward Armah!

Here Edward is spotted wearing one of his signature cotton bow ties, with a great silk lapel boutonniere, and complementary linen pocket square with red tipping.  The tipping is discussed more in pocket squares 201!

FINALLY…WHAT ABOUT YOUR SOX?

First, always try to match or complement your pants with your sox.   Bolder sox are in fashion…but there are many choices from which to choose.  The pair upper left are navy/white and work with your navy suits.  The other pair would work with most gray suits.

If you are unsure, just seek out your custom clothier’s opinion and advice.  He or she is adept at spotting fashion trends and can be very helpful in guiding you through the maze of today’s fashion options…without letting you go too far astray from what you would be comfortable wearing in your line of work.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

How to Wear…or Not Wear Seersucker this summer!

Normally, GQ provides me with some great info and advice…today…I have to respectfully disagree with their advice!

I  think seersucker provides an extremely comfortable summer suiting alternative but don’t feel the white shirt and dark tie does Johnny Knoxville in.  I think it’s his red sneakers!

I am quite fine with a cool, complementary casual dress shirt, or knit also…but the red sneaks have to go!  My customers prefer summer suedes or loafers.

What say you?

Happy Styling!

VInnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

How Does a Guy with a one pack get fitted?

GQ just sent me an article that I thought I’d share. You’ll see that even if you are a little rounded, a properly fitted suit can make a world of difference!

All will agree that GQ’s fashion police did a terrific job getting Joshua looking like a million bucks.  Josh is a stunt actor coming in at 6’2″ and over 230 lbs!

The magic is in getting the shoulders to fit.  Since Josh has very rounded shoulders, I would stay away from some of today’s unstructured garments and go with a slightly capped shoulder with moderate padding.  Those rounded shoulders take on a very sculptured look with some straight lines applied!

I’d recommend a lapel of 3 1/4″ for a person with Josh’s build.  Smaller will look goofy.

Nip the jacket waist slightly and all of a sudden, Joshua looks cut!

Finally, the pants need to be comfortable but roomy enough in the thigh for a big guy.  A flat front, with the proper thigh measurement will look like a million, but be very comfortable…the taper from knee to floor can be even more slimming depending on the indiidual’s calf size.

Joshua and others with his build will have difficulty finding suits that fit properly off the rack.  A custom tailor will measure his shoulders, and mid section for a perfect fit.  And since, the pants will be custom, there is no worrying about taking the pant waist in to accommodate the larger pant that would invariably come with the jacket to fit Joshua.

If you are built like Joshua, seek out your local custom clothier and show him this GQ photo.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

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What Can a Groom Wear to His Wedding?

If you or your son/daughter is planning a wedding, there are many excellent choices for wedding venues, caterers, bridal gowns, bands, DJ’s, flowers, etc.

But…where does the groom turn for his outfit and that of his groom’s men?

Typically, a groom turns to a chain tuxedo rental outfit for rental tuxedos for himself and his party.

TODAY’S SMART ALTERNATIVE TO RENTAL TUXEDOS FOR SAVVY GROOMS:

A viable alternative with unlimited creative twists exists and is offered by Christopher’s Custom and many other custom clothiers.  Many young men are cost conscious and seek value-driven alternatives to the rental of previously-worn tuxedos.  A purchased tuxedo or suit will provide years’ worth of future wearability vs the one-and-done nature of a tuxedo rental!

Below is a recent wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.

Ben Baker and his groom’s men are shown at Canfield Casino in Saratoga Springs wearing Super 140’s, 100% wool, black suits, custom white broadcloth shirts woven with long-staple 2-ply cotton, white silk pocket squares, and black silk ties from Christopher’s Custom.

Each suit was tailored to be slim-fitting and very hip!

These Off-the-rack suits are priced competitively with most tuxedo rentals.

WHAT CAN I DO FOR MY GROOMSMEN’S FAVORS?

Something few grooms or brides consider what shirt collar will everyone be wearing…this is very important for those expensive photo sessions you have arranged!  My recommendation, if your budget permits, is to purchase a custom shirt for each groomsmen.  This kills two birds with one stone…it provides a consistent collar for your lifetime wedding photos, and a re-usable gift for your groomsmen with your initials and wedding date forever embroidered into the shirt’s yoke!

Ben chose to purchase custom shirts as his groom’s men gifts.  Inside the yolk of each we had embroidered the bride’s and groom’s initials along with the date of their wedding.

Ben’s custom shirts were designed with a Slightly shorter collar to complement today’s slimmer lapel profiles,and my personal favorite- a convertible, non-fold french cuff.  One that may be worn with or without cuff links!

WHAT IF I DON’T WANT A DARK SUIT OR TUX?

Here is another wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.  This groom, Jake Dubuque, chose custom suits and shirts for his wedding party.

Their suit fabric was a terrific lightweight linen-wool blend, perfect for his summer wedding.

If you are wondering, measurements for your groom’s men are easily attained by using our Christopher’s Custom Wedding Measurement Form.

WHEN WILL MY OUTFITS ARRIVE?

One more important thing to think about when comparing rental outfits to ones like I’ve featured above.  Did you realize that if you rent tuxedos, they will arrive typically the Thursday or Friday before your wedding?  This provides scant time for last minute alterations, corrections, etc. and usually creates unnecessary angst on your special day!  On the other hand, purchased garments will typically be delivered 4 weeks or more before your special day eliminating the potential for problems with your groomsmen’s or your own outfit!

For custom wedding garments, I recommend allowing 8 weeks.  For off-the-rack choices, 4 weeks is recommended to allow for alterations and other unexpected emergencies.

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding and feel free to contact me for a consultation or with any other questions you may have.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua-Founder, Christopher’s Custom

P.S.  Please share with your friends and colleagues who may be considering a special day of their own!

Pleats Again?

Do you think pleats will return to men’s fashion?

Well…I do!

History repeats itself in every facet of life…certainly in men’s clothing. Flat fronts brought something new (aka “repeated”) to men’s clothing over the last 10 years…but pleats are ready for a resurgence.

Here is a recent ad in GQ for Giorgio Armani…

OK…so Giorgio Armani thinks so from this February, 2016 GQ ad!

I love pleated pants…they are much more comfortable…no matter how large I make the thigh…and they make everyone look great…the extra lines of the pleats just elongate the torso!

So…don’t expect to see pleated pants anywhere in retail stores for the next few years…but if you chat up your local custom tailor, ask him/her about trying a pair of pleated pants this year…be a fashion leader…and re-find what comfort is all about!

Please call if you can’t find a custom clothier near you.  I’ll be glad to assist you in finding one!

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christpher’s Custom

Spring Suit Idea with Loads of Options!

In spite of a snow flurry today, it’s time to start thinking about your spring/summer wardrobe! Up state in NY, I get asked a lot about outfits for the Saratoga Track Season…end of July and August.

One of my recommendations is a Linen & Wool suit from Vitale Barberis Canonico. This fabric looks like linen, but does not wrinkle as easily! Made with a 1/2 back, it is extremely light for the hottest days summer can throw at us during track season, or wedding or graduation days!

Moreover, this suit is a versatile workhorse! The jacket can be paired with a pair of cotton/lycra white pants for a dressy casual look, or over jeans!

Here, I detailed this suit with white bone buttons for spring/summer for the Northeast…through September 30.  Then, I switch out the buttons to a great blue marbled bone button…perfect for the rest of the year…through April 1.

Now, the fun starts here…switch out the suit pants for a custom-made pair of white cotton/lycra pants…styled as slim flat fronts or 5-pocket jeans, and you’ve got a perfect dressy casual outfit.  Add a pop of color with a custom casual shirt and you are ready for Saratoga or any other summer occasion…member-guest at your golf club, wedding, cocktail party, etc.

Dressy casual doesn’t get any better!

Finally, pair with your favorite jeans and this outfit just keeps on tickin!

Call your local custom clothier to discuss an outfit like this or feel free to contact me for a consultation.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Sneakers with Suits?

GQ just ran an interesting article but I am wondering how working professionals feel about this current fashion trend. Let me know!

GQ Right & Wrong Way to Wear Sneakers with your suit!

DeAndre Jordan from the Clippers on the left…Luke Wilson on the right…before you read the article…who got it right and would you wear sneakers with your suit?

Click Here to See This Month’s Specials

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

What Suit Fabric Is Perfect for Winter’s Cold?

If you live in the Northeast and are beginning to feel the chill of the season, you should consider investing in a heavier wool suit.   The most comfortable, luxurious, yet affordable alternative is a lightweight flannel like those I carry from Vitale Barberis for suiting.  For sport coats, a medium weight wool with some loft to the fabric will work fine.  Below are two of my favorite flannel suits and a terrific winter-wool sport coat.

Above, I’ve featured a medium blue flannel with a 3/4″ chalkstripe.  The detailing on the sleeve head is outrageous…beautifully coordinating marine blue stitching with purple/teal/blue grosgrain trim set off an equally impressive set of marbled navy buttons.

Above, I feature a unique light gray flannel with a subtle series of stripes.  The lining is a whimsical copy of sheet music.  Red pic stitching on the interior provides a pop of color!

This winter-weight sport coat will go with everything…from tan, black or charcoal pants to your favorite jeans!  I chose a mocha twill fabric for the flat front trouser.  The shirt was designed to pull out the rust colors and the sleeve head detailing finishes off this outstanding winter sport coat.  Instead of a custom shirt, try a custom cashmere or ultra fine merino sweater in this season’s popular turtle neck styling, or if you prefer, a mock turtle.  The 1/4 zip works great also…with or without a casual collared shirt under!

Check with the custom clothier nearest you for what other options are available.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Weddings By Christopher’s Custom

If you or your son/daughter is planning a wedding, there are many excellent choices for wedding venues, caterers, bridal gowns, bands, DJ’s, flowers, etc.

But…where does the groom turn for his outfit and that of his groom’s men?

Typically, a groom turns to a chain tuxedo rental outfit for rental tuxedos for himself and his party.

TODAY’S SMART ALTERNATIVE TO RENTAL TUXEDOS FOR SAVVY GROOMS:

A viable alternative with unlimited creative twists exists and is offered by Christopher’s Custom and many other custom clothiers.  Many young men are cost conscious and seek value-driven alternatives to the rental of previously-worn tuxedos.  A purchased tuxedo or suit will provide years’ worth of future wearability vs the one-and-done nature of a tuxedo rental!

Below is a recent wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.

Ben Baker and his groom’s men are shown at Canfield Casino in Saratoga Springs wearing Super 140’s, 100% wool, black suits, custom white broadcloth shirts woven with long-staple 2-ply cotton, white silk pocket squares, and black silk ties from Christopher’s Custom.

Each suit was tailored to be slim-fitting and very hip!

These Off-the-rack suits are priced competitively with most tuxedo rentals.

WHAT CAN I DO FOR MY GROOMSMEN’S FAVORS?

Something few grooms or brides consider what shirt collar will everyone be wearing…this is very important for those expensive photo sessions you have arranged!  My recommendation, if your budget permits, is to purchase a custom shirt for each groomsmen.  This kills two birds with one stone…it provides a consistent collar for your lifetime wedding photos, and a re-usable gift for your groomsmen with your initials and wedding date forever embroidered into the shirt’s yoke!

Ben chose to purchase custom shirts as his groom’s men gifts.  Inside the yolk of each we had embroidered the bride’s and groom’s initials along with the date of their wedding.

Ben’s custom shirts were designed with a Slightly shorter collar to complement today’s slimmer lapel profiles,and my personal favorite- a convertible, non-fold french cuff.  One that may be worn with or without cuff links!

WHAT IF I DON’T WANT A DARK SUIT OR TUX?

Here is another wedding outfitted by Christopher’s Custom.  This groom, Jake Dubuque, chose custom suits and shirts for his wedding party.

Their suit fabric was a terrific lightweight linen-wool blend, perfect for his summer wedding.

If you are wondering, measurements for your groom’s men are easily attained by using our Christopher’s Custom Wedding Measurement Form.

WHEN WILL MY OUTFITS ARRIVE?

One more important thing to think about when comparing rental outfits to ones like I’ve featured above.  Did you realize that if you rent tuxedos, they will arrive typically the Thursday or Friday before your wedding?  This provides scant time for last minute alterations, corrections, etc. and usually creates unnecessary angst on your special day!  On the other hand, purchased garments will typically be delivered 4 weeks or more before your special day eliminating the potential for problems with your groomsmen’s or your own outfit!

For custom wedding garments, I recommend allowing 8 weeks.  For off-the-rack choices, 4 weeks is recommended to allow for alterations and other unexpected emergencies.

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding and feel free to contact me for a consultation or with any other questions you may have.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua-Founder, Christopher’s Custom

P.S.  Please share with your friends and colleagues who may be considering a special day of their own!