Uncategorized – Christopher's Custom

Winter is coming…what suit should you buy?

If you live in the Northeast and are beginning to feel the chill of the season, you should consider investing in a heavier wool suit. The most comfortable, luxurious, yet affordable alternative is a lightweight flannel like those I carry from Vitale Barberis for suiting. For sport coats, a medium weight wool with some loft to the fabric will work fine. Below are two of my favorite flannel suits and a terrific winter-wool sport coat.

Above, I’ve featured a medium blue flannel with a 3/4″ chalkstripe. The detailing on the sleeve head is outrageous…beautifully coordinating marine blue stitching with purple/teal/blue grosgrain trim set off an equally impressive set of marbled navy buttons.

Above, I feature a unique light gray flannel with a subtle series of stripes. The lining is a whimsical copy of sheet music. Red pic stitching on the interior provides a pop of color!

This winter-weight sport coat will go with everything…from tan, black or charcoal pants to your favorite jeans! I chose a mocha twill fabric for the flat front trouser. The shirt was designed to pull out the rust colors and the sleeve head detailing finishes off this outstanding winter sport coat. Instead of a custom shirt, try a custom cashmere or ultra fine merino sweater in this season’s popular turtle neck styling, or if you prefer, a mock turtle. The 1/4 zip works great also…with or without a casual collared shirt under!

Check with the custom clothier nearest you for what other options are available.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Christopher’s Designs Two More Final Four Jackets!

Well…March Madness is right around the corner and we just completed custom blazers for two coaches who make it to the Final Four for the first time in 2013.

Above is Greg Marshall’s Final Four Coaches’ Club blazer…and what a run his team is having this year! The Shockers are UNDEFEATED as this is written! Go Coach Marshall!

Don’t count out the Wolverines…First in the Big Ten!

Christopher’s is excited to again be participating in the Final Four and is partnering this year with Keith Warshawsky- Founder Premier Clothiers. Christopher’s and Premier Clothiers have pledged a portion of the proceeds of every sale at the Final Four to Cancer Research!

If you are interested in learning more about our partnership with Coaches vs. Cancer and how you can order your custom clothing so that a portion of your proceeds goes toward cancer research, please contact me.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

NY Fashion Shows- January, 2014

I just returned from this year’s Fashion and Trade Shows in NYC.

Over the next few blogs, I will be reporting on some of the more exciting trends/findings of this year’s visit.

This year’s show was fantastic! Held in a different section of the Javits, MRKET was hip, comfortable, and manageable.

One of my favorites, fueled by the frigid temperatures of this winter and NYC this week, was the chenille collection from my friend, Marsha Fleisher, Designer and owner of Loominus. Loominus is headquartered just next to my hometown of Kingston, NY in Woodstock.

Chenille scarves from Loominus are luxuriously warm, comfy, and vividly colorful! Ask your custom clothier if they can get you one! Here is a great tutorial on how to tie your scarf, compliments of the Loominus website:

Pair one of these great scarves with your custom top coat or custom shearling coat for the warmth you desire during this year’s frigid cold spell!

If you have no success locating these scarves, feel free to reach out to me for assistance at

Christopher’s Custom

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

CUSTOM CLOTHING ADVANTAGES?

This week I’d like to step back and reflect on why I’m drawn to custom clothing.

My background includes rising through the ranks of the CPA Profession to partner in one of the largest firms in the world, leading a few mid-sized companies through some challenges, and founding a men’s specialty store chain that was recognized by Esquire Magazine as 1of the top 100 in America…7 seasons in a row!

So…why did I settle ultimately on custom clothing for my business model?

VALUE
SELECTION
FIT
EXCLUSIVITY

VALUE– In previous posts, I’ve discussed how custom clothing will result in a more efficient wardrobe. Just think about how many shirts, pants, jackets, suits, and ties you’ve purchased being told by a great sales person how these were “just what you need”…and “your perfect fit”…only to get home and not be pleased with your choice, the color…or more often than not…the fit! Here is a link to a post that discusses “Value”…Link To Value Blog Post

SELECTION– When you shop in a traditional store, you are at the mercy of the “buyer’s” tastes…and what your salesperson has REMAINING to sell! When you work with your custom clothier, you will be getting advice on how to add outfits (or add to existing outfits) that meet your specific wardrobe AND budget! You will never be limited by what any store’s buyer thought would be in style in a coming season…or what any store’s salesperson has left on the floor that he/she is pressured to sell! With custom, you will always have unlimited options!

FIT– This benefit is self-evident. Just think about the last shirt you purchased because it was just the color, or had just the collar you had been looking for…only to get home and feel that it was too blousy…or too long to wear outside casually over your jeans…or the sleeves were just a little too short…or a little too long! Think about those great looking trousers you purchased…only to get them home and discover that the legs were just a little too big…or worse…a little too small!

With custom, you will always be expertly fitted with garments that fit just how you’d like them to!

EXCLUSIVITY– Whether you are purchasing the most value-priced custom garments…or the most expensive, you can rest assured that you will be the only one wearing a given outfit in your neck of the woods! Furthermore, most custom clothiers know who are within your circle of friends, and do their utmost to maintain exclusivity of fabrications and designs within such circles.

For the most discriminate, my favorite fabrications include Dormeuil’s Amadeus 365, Tropical, and Aquaplan. While each has its unique features…every Dormeuil pattern except core basic solids…is made into Four Seventy-yard pieces. Since an average suit utilizes 3.5 yards of fabric, Dormeuil ensures that their patterns will only appear in 70 suits WORLDWIDE! While I love Zegna, Scabal, Loro Piana, and other fabrics…Dormeuil provides one of the most affordable, exclusive fabrications available today!

If you haven’t tried custom, call a local custom clothier to discuss your next wardrobe update…be pleasantly surprised by the overall annual cost for custom vs. off-the-rack!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

SPORT COATS ARE BACK!!!

This season, sport coats are all the rage. Many customers feel sport coats are too “one-dimensional”, offering only one look. With the help of a knowledgeable custom clothier, nothing could be further from the Truth!

Today, we will take one sport coat and show you four distinctly different looks!

We start with a terrific blue/rust check fabric from our Dormeuil Collection. This outfit is perfect for those day-time Spring/Summer events, and features a pair of cement linen/wool pants, a blue checked shirt and a striped tie with just enough rust rust to pull it all together! Note our button and buttonhole thread choices!

NEXT UP…OCEAN BLUE PANTS, SHIRT, AND ANOTHER GREAT HAND-MADE TIE!

This outfit provides a totally different look…primarily due to the pairing of a slightly darker trouser…again, we’ve chosen one of our linen/wool fabrics for our trouser. If you haven’t experienced a pant or jacket from the Vitale Barberis linen/wool collection, you really must! This fabric gives the look of linen, with a fraction of the wrinkles! It’s lightweight, cool, comfortable…but performs like most Americans prefer…i.e. without excessive wrinkling. We paired this terrific trouser with a mini-ginfham blue shirt and another super hand-made silk striped tie that brings all our colors together!

DARKEN THINGS UP SLIGHTLY FOR A BUSINESS CASUAL, OFFICE LOOK!

Now, our sport coat outfit is perfect for a day at the office where a “business casual with tie” is appropriate from Springtime through the end of Summer. A pair of mocha all-season trousers serve as our base. We’ve chosen a terrific end-on-end blue shirt to provide a little texture and a great backdrop to our rust/blue striped tie. (Note the subtle change added to this outfit…I’ve changed the button hole color to ivory for a different feel. Talk with your custom tailor about subtle changed to your buttonhole thread…have some fun!)

WHY STOP HERE? HOW ABOUT A SATURDAY OUT AT YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT?

Take one of our super comfortable 100% linen shirts, custom-fit and designed to your liking, and you’ve got the perfect Friday or Saturday evening outfit to wear to your favorite restaurant/bar! Picture this otherwise dressy sport coat over your favorite jeans with this versatile linen shirt. One last detailing change I’ve added to this outfit, is to change the button color to our ivory mother-of-pearl. Again…a subtle change…but one worth considering to further distinguish this special sport coat!

LET’S NOT FORGET THE SHIRT DETAILS POSSIBLE WITH A CUSTOM SHIRT!

I’ve designed this great linen shirt with a shirt length approximately 1.5 inches shorter than normal…so that it may be worn outside your favorite jeans. Tan buttons with orange-colored button holes provide subtle detailing. Note the blue patterned trim we’ve added to our collar and cuffs to provide a great accent when worn separately…and a very subtle tie-in to our blue checked jacket when worn open collar with the sport coat!

Ask your custom clothier to help you find the sport coat(s) that will work for you, and build 3-4 outfits. You will be pleasantly surprised to find out just how versatile a sport coat can become if paired with the right pants/shirts/ties…to provide you with distinctly different looks!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

2013 Tuxedo Guide

Each year we get a lot of questions from young couples about what to wear for their upcoming summer weddings.

We also get asked for guidance on replacing their old tuxedos.

No one seems to know what the rules are, and there are dozens of options…so here are a few simple guidelines to consider if you find yourself needing to rent/buy a tuxedo for a formal event this Spring/Summer. This Guide focuses only on tuxedo recommendations. If you are considering a wedding and opting for suits vs. tuxedos, watch for an upcoming guide on Wedding Suits!

Most classic Tuxedo: Single breasted, notch with one button.

Other choices include the peak and shawl. The peak is a little more classic and modern-looking today.

If you are renting or buying a ready-made tuxedo, your lapels will have a shiny satin finish. If you are considering a custom tuxedo, you should consider a black gros-grain finish on your lapels.

Black grosgrain shown in Custom Bowties

My second coat option would be the peak lapel. Still a classic. (The other options are shawl collar…not my favorite…or double breasted…a classic but only looks good when buttoned…and that’s just not that comfortable…unbuttoning every time you sit down, etc.)

Your button options will be 2 button or 1 button. I prefer 1 button…clean and simple are your goal. 1B is cleaner.

I continue to advocate besom pockets…the most classic…but flaps like one finds on suits are fine. (Scroll back up to the first photo of the notch tuxedo. This has “besom pockets” or pockets without flaps.) Similarly, I opt for a non-vented jacket back…it’s the cleanest look…and the most classic. If you are renting, or buying off-the-rack, you won’t have many choices…probably double side vents are today’s leading style…but with custom, you can style your own tuxedo venting.

Pants are simple…pleated are my first choice…because…you tend to sit a lot when wearing a tuxedo…dinners, weddings, etc. and pleated pants are just flat out more comfortable (see April 11 blog). If you are renting, flat front trousers are the most popular by far…especially for wedding parties and proms.

As far as the vest/tie goes, the rule is that if one is attending a formal affair at which someone is being honored…man of the year, wedding, etc….all male guests are supposed to blend into the background to allow the guest of honor to be the Peacock…everyone else should be a sea of penguins…

To that point, for the formal affair you must attend, at which one is being honored, you have but one choice in color of your vest/tie…black…you can add a small pattern on pattern…or a small hint of silver, etc…but the basic tie/bowtie vest should be a black ground…many, many guys violate this tenet…but these are the rules…

On the other hand, if you are attending a fundraising gala, for example, or a New Year’s Eve gala, or a grand opening gala, or your wedding…these are events to which you come sporting whatever color floats your boat. Oftentimes, the male will choose a color to complement his date’s dress…especially for proms as shown below…and this year, it’s all about color!!!

Notice the Bow Tie! It’s coming back!

Last…change in neck wear choices…A tie with matching vest has been the most popular neck wear option for the past 10 years. Vests with ties or bow ties are still popular…especially for weddings and proms…but The Style Leader cautions that the bow tie is making a comeback! A single breasted notch lapel tuxedo, flat front pant, with white flat front shirt…with a bow tie…without a cummerbund…is probably the hottest look.

Leonardo DiCaprio at this Year’s Recent Golden Globe Awards

So…these are my guidelines and advice…sage or not…

Happy Hunting!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom

Special Thanks to Sam Vavala- Samuel’s Formalwear

Winner of Suits For The Cause Drawing

And the winner of a free suit or two free custom shirts is… Richard Jankunas! Congratulations, Richard.

I would like to thank everyone who participated in our drawing by either signing up at the Coaches vs. Cancer Classic at the new Barclays Center or by liking our Facebook page.

The first ever Coaches vs. Cancer Classic at the new Barclays Center in Brooklyn on November 16th & 17th was a great success and we would like to thank anyone who helped us support this great cause.

Stay updated by liking Suits For The Cause on Facebook and share with your friends and family so that they can join the cause too.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom and President, Suits For The Cause, Inc.

Join the Cause: Like us on Facebook to Enter Drawing

Like Suits For The Cause on Facebook before Midnight this Sunday, November 18th, and you will be entered into a drawing to win a FREE suit or TWO FREE custom shirts.

We are offering this as a way for everyone to participate in the first Coaches vs. Cancer Classic held at the new Barclays Center this weekend in Brooklyn.

You will be able to participate in our kick-off drawing, just like guests of the NABC and Coaches vs. Cancer who are attending the Classic this weekend.

To enter the drawing: click this link and like our page: Suits For The Cause Facebook

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom and President, Suits For The Cause, Inc.

Join the Cause.. and Get a Free Tie!

Just over ONE WEEK remains until this year’s upcoming Coaches vs. Cancer Classic. Join the cause!

Place your order now and get a free, custom-selected, Italian silk, hand-made Coaches vs. Cancer tie. From gorgeous paisleys, to updated stripes, to elegant neat, smaller patterns.

One FREE custom-selected Coaches vs. Cancer tie with each suit or blazer/pant order! A perfect fit with 20% going to cancer research.

Suits For The Cause Shop

If you know someone who has been touched by cancer, like us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @SuitsFTC.

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom and President, Suits For The Cause, Inc.

Fall 2012 Men’s Casual Shirt Review

New Look Without Breaking the Bank?

What better way to freshen up one’s wardrobe than by adding a new shirt? Whether to freshen up your formal business wardrobe, your business casual wardrobe, or your weekend casual outfits, a new shirt is one of the most efficient means of accomplishing this seasonal task!

What color/patterns are in?

The trend is clearly towards textured solids and checks in dress as well as casual shirts.

Checked shirt shown with a solid tie, & suit

There is still a place for a striped shirt that complements one’s other wardrobe elements. The focus, however, if purchasing more than one or looking for something more fashion-oriented would be textured solids or checks.

The following is my design portfolio of Fall, 2012 shirt concepts. Click on the link, then “view lookbooks” at the top of the gallery, to scroll through a few of our favorite Fall shirt concepts.

Link to 2012 Shirt Design Portfolio

Remember, if the shirt you choose may be worn with a tie, the collar/cuff trim won’t be seen when wearing a tie…but offers a nice alternative to the traditional shirt when worn open-collared.

Happy hunting this season!

Regards,

Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom and President, Suits For The Cause, Inc.