Our last shirt guide was posted in May, 2011. This Fall, men’s dress shirt collar styles have consolidated into several easy trends. From the most popular sports news announcers, to James Bond, to the hippest athletes like David Beckham, collars worn with suits or sport coats mirror the lapel’s width.
Let’s go around the horn starting at the upper left:
A wide-spread collar is matched with this 3 1/4″ lapel. The length of the collar point is 3″.
The ever-dapper Michael Wilpon sports an open-collared white shirt with a medium spread. His points are approximately 2 7/8″. Note Mr. Wilpon’s clever introduction of color into this otherwise plain outfit with his blue pocket square.
Pierce Brosnan shows us that history repeats itself…especially when it comes to men’s clothing. His medium spread is as in-style today as when he made this James Bond movie.
The next two are surprises…the turtle neck is back! It has long been my favorite with a sport coat, but looks equally as well with a flannel suit. Christopher’s Custom offers custom cashmere sweaters for that perfect fit!
Beckham reflects what I said in my introduction. He is wearing a larger peak lapel and has matched perfectly a medium spread collar with a standard satin tie.
The next model features a medium spread collar with a 3″ point. Notice the subtle glen plaid of the shirt’s fabric. “Non-solid” solids and solids are gaining in popularity over bolder stripes/checks of years past.
Finally, we end with the classic tuxedo formal shirt…bow tie and cumberbund…this collar is the same simple medium spread with a 3″ point. Christopher’s offers custom cumberbunds and bow ties.
In summary, if you choose a suit/sport coat having a smaller lapel than 3 1/4″, consider a shirt collar with a slightly smaller point…instead of 3″…look for one with a 2 3/4″ point. This slight difference is all that you need to have your shirt match your lapel perfectly.
If you like a smaller knot in your tie, look for a shirt with “0” tie space…typically only available in custom…but if you like a tie with a larger knot…lean towards a wider spread with 1/4″ tie space…to allow for your slightly larger knot…the huge knots of a year or so ago…are no longer in style! The knot in the top photo left is a knit tie…a little “beefier” and works better with the wide spread collar with 1/4″ tie space. By contrast, the same knot in the lower left photo next to the tuxedo shirt, is made with a silk tie…producing a smaller knot, and working well with a medium spread collar with “0” tie space.
If you have any individual questions on what to wear under your new sport coat or suit jacket, please shoot me an email or respond to this blog and I’ll reply within 24 hours.
Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom