This will begin a series of posts designed to help one build an efficient wardrobe that embodies today’s styles.
As the series progresses, everyone will find a point at which the discussion fits their needs.
I’m going to start with the premise that everyone needs at least one suit for occasions from weddings to funerals to interviews to important business meetings.
Our first article of clothing should, consequently be the suit. Over the past five years, most will probably have encountered suits featuring a 3-button front. While these are still in style, the most fashionable suits today are a 2-button with a higher button stance. In other words, the top button is placed higher than the traditional 2-button suit you probably last purchased. It’s not quite as high as the highest button placement on the 3-button you probably own, but it’s higher.
This suit could be navy or black…mine is actually a midnight blue…the point is that your core suit should be a dark one. The venting preference today is two side vents. Other options would include a center vent or vent-less. The style of the back of your jacket is not critical, but either style works. Remember, vents can always be closed up if you don’t like them or if they go out of style…while a vent-less jacket can not be altered to add vents.
I prefer a ticket pocket for an additional level of detail…but that is a personal choice. 65% of my custom customers prefer a ticket pocket.
This versatile suit can be toned down for a very dressy business casual look by removing the tie. Below, I combine a lavender mini-striped shirt with a matching pocket square with white piping, for a dressy-casual look.
Your primary full dress shirt should be white and your tie should be a medium to dark ground with a small pattern. I’m wearing a wide spread collar custom shirt. The collar is slighter higher to allow for a slightly larger knot. Remember, as I’ve discussed previously, fashion is all about proportions…a wider collar requires a wider tie.
This will get you ready for your most important occasions.
The reason I recommend a black or navy suit is that you can wear this as a blazer by simply changing your trousers…
Above is the same suit jacket paired with a pair of white trousers. While some may prefer the gold-button look made popular by Jim Backus as Thurston Howel III on Gillagan’s Island, many like myself opt for a monochromatic or bone button.
If the above look is yours, then the concept of using your navy suit as a multi-functional wardrobe piece might not work for you. For those who don’t need, prefer or care about gold buttons on their navy blazer, this tutorial should be of interest.
So…with the right first purchase, one can see how easy it is to build a wardrobe that will satisfy all your needs without breaking the bank!
Final Spring Fashion Tips…your pants should be flat front, with a narrower knee and your jacket should be shorter than normal.
I designed my navy suit with a standard jacket length and pleated pants…if, however, you are striving to be truly fashion-forward, you should ask your custom tailor to take 1″ to 1 1/2″ off what your jacket length is. Your pants should have approximately a 20″ knee and as little as a 17 1/2″ bottom for a flat front (34 waist…larger waists require proportionately larger knees and bottoms). So…my standard length suit jacket is 31 1/2″. My newest suit jackets are actually 30″ long. I’ll feature one in a subsequent post!
Follow my blogs each week to learn how to add to this basic item, expanding geometrically the number of outfits you have.
Please forward your sartorial questions to me at firstname.lastname@example.org
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